Usalola’s Weblog

 I jetted off to Santorini, (as Glenn calls it “our trip within a trip” ), one of my favorite spots on the entire planet. Who doesn’t love a place with fabulous food,  tear-jerking views, and wonderful people?  A picture paints a thousand words….

Santorini-where else?

yet again..

LOVIN' this!!!

I think I’m also enamored a bit with Santorini because this is where Glenn and I “met” 14yrs ago. Let me quickly explain (for those who don’t know the story): He wrote an ad looking for a traveling partner, I answered the ad with a picture of me wearing a big hat and glasses and sitting on a wall in Santorini waiting for the sun to set, he called, and the rest is, well, a little more involved, but as they say, history. So of course I had to find the wall again and take another picture.

14 years later...

The weather was absolutely glorious, which showed off the stark white buildings even more. We wandered through the cobblestone streets window-shopping, with a must-do stop at a taverna overlooking the water for a late afternoon cocktail. One afternoon we wandered to the “old village” (how it differs from the rest of the island, we’re not sure) and came across a sign for a winery. We followed the sign as it snaked through narrow, deserted streets until we came to a cave-like entrance and a winery called Gavala. We walked in, and were greeted by numerous cats (in abundance in Greece) and the somewhat frazzled winemaker. He stopped working with his scientific potions long enough to taste us on some of his wines, and tell us the winery has been owned by the Gavala family for 300years! Take that Napa valley!! We really enjoyed a dry white produced from the rare and indigenous grapes of Katsano and Gaidouria, both unknown outside of Santorini. It was a pleasant surprise to taste such good wines on the island.

After 3 sun-soaked days in Santorini,we were off to Crete. They couldn’t be more opposite- Santorini is stunning and euro-chic, where Crete is rugged and a little unkept. The landscape is dramatic with more olive oil trees than I have ever seen.

Olive trees galore

The “Cretans” are very proud of their island and its history. We went to the ancient city of Aptera, which dates back to 8th c. B.C. An earthquake in 365 A.D marked its decline, and the next powerful earthquake in 7 A.D. its definitive abandonment. It was amazing to see so much of the city still standing.

Aptera

three-parted cistern

The weather in Crete was a little wild – cool and very breezy. We had a wonderful hotel room right on the water, so we could see and hear the waves hitting against the shore. Really quite beautiful.

view from our room

One very,very breezy day, our guide drove us to the area called the Gramvousa Penisula on the northwest tip of Crete. The wind was howling as we walked the steep stone steps down to the water of many different colors, passing goats and a sign for a “taverna” on the way. It was amazing! Hit on the photo to enlarge it and really see how gorgeous it is.

Goats on the trail, and a taverna awaits!

various shades of blue

parting shot

First, let me say, there are no pictures on this blog. Quite honestly, I didn’t see anything I wanted to shoot! So if you’re still interested in my whitty (ha!) writing, read on.

After Glenn & I dropped off Richele and Edmund we started making our way towards NYC, and JFK – where Glenn would be catching a flight to Greece in a couple of days. I was getting a little nervous already thinking about driving out of JFK and into New Jersey. LA this is not, these people are serious about their driving.  I was going to give myself time to relax beforehand, though, by heading out to Long Island and the Hamptons (you have to say it with your teeth clenched and an english accent).

Route 27 is the road that takes you to the south shore, and all the Hamptons,  - Southhampton, Bridgehampton and East Hampton. I drove as far as Southhampton to see what all the fuss is about. Yes, the town is quaint (yet again!) and the beach is beautiful, but there were some massively huge (and ugly, in my opinion) houses on the beach. I’m talking mansions that could easily be hotels and castles in Europe. Waaay over the top. I had enough of that, and settled myself into a beach-side campground with a glass of wine and my cats. Now THAT’S the way to live.

Long Island also has its own wine country ( I seem to sniff them out) on the north shore off of route 48 and route 25. It is bordered by the Atlantic ocean and the Long Island sound.It is relatively new (early 80’s)and is doing a really decent job with Gewurtz. and Cabernet Franc. I started out at Jamesport Vineyards and Jake directed me to some other wineries that are doing sustainable and biodynamic farming. My favorite was Shinn Vineyards, who are working with biodynamic principles even though they are not certified at this point. It is a really beautiful area and they are making some good wines, but need to get real with their prices. (100$ for a Long Island Meritage blend at one winery!)

The next day I had to face my fear and drive over to New Jersey. Now, this wouldn’t have been such a deal if I could have taken LOLA on the parkways- I would have gone through Staten Island and avoided the whole NYC/Bronx traffic, but there are height limitations on them due to some old bridges. So heart beating, hands sweating and eyes wide open, I headed off.  Everything was going smoothly until.. the infamous “until” – I went right when I should have gone left, and I found myself stuck in traffic in the middle of the Bronx. Oh happy day! All went ok, really, and was actually a little amusing, when at one point, sitting in traffic, a guy in the car next to me yells over “What is ‘dat thing?” (meaning the rig). New York – you gotta love it.

Whew! that over with, I’m going to spend the week cruising down the Jersey coast.  First stop was Freehold, town of the Henry Hudson rail trail (seem to sniff those out too.) It was a 25-mile out and back  paved and forest-lined ride. Really enjoyable, but longer than I anticipated as it winds through alot of small towns.

I continued my way south, stopping in Atlantic city for a little shopping (great outlet stores and no tax!). I’m not into gambling, so I drove around the outskirts of the city taking in all the stately and big seaside mansions.  I meandered down Ocean drive and little beachy towns, to Cape May at the southern most tip of the Jersey shore. The penisula was first inhabited by the kechemeche Indians, and sighted by Sir Henry Hudson (of the rail trail above) in 1609.

After a devastating fire in 1878, the town rebuilt its homes and businesses in the Queen Anne and Gothic style that still exists today. Ok, enough of the history lesson. I took the ferry over to Delaware and have worked my way up through the state ( very open fields, and not much to talk about) to Maryland, and my brother in- laws house, where I am going to say “see ya” to the rig and the cats and go join Glenn in Greece for some fun in the sun!!!

Out of Massachussets (sp?) and the glamourous towns, and on to Connecticut (enough with these long-lettered states!) and New York. We hunkered down a few nights in Mystic (anyone remember the movie? Glenn didn’t know what the heck I was talking about). We didn’t have any pizza (movie title: Mystic Pizza), but we did see the sights (very quaint and historic-like all of New England) and break the law.

Let me explain that last one (I can hear my Mom going – what?!!).  Mystic seaport is not just an open port to walk around and see all the boats, it is a commercial business. They have locked gates surrounding the port area, and there are lots of little shops and small houses where the people dress up in period outfits pretending to do jobs like they were done way back when – they charge $18 person to go in. Well…. ever the pro photog, Glenn wanted to shoot the port area at sunrise (yes, 6am) and he wanted an “assistant” (yes, that would be me) and no, he and I didn’t know before we started this adventure that the place was all gated up.(Glenn had been there 20yrs ago when it was just another seaport). So… we get there in the 40 degree weather -hats, gloves and all, only to see the place locked up. I’m thinking – party’s over, time to go back for a few zzz’s, but Glenn is like, “let’s walk around a little”..hmm… what do we find? Surprise! an open gate that the security guard (or guards-we don’t know) left open. So, of course, we go in and start tipe-toeing around. I’m constantly looking over my shoulder while Glenn is shooting away, and while we see a security guard, he doesn’t see us. After about 25 minutes of this, we climb a gate out of the port just as we see another guard in the distance walking towards us to come on duty. Just another day in the life of a photographer living on the edge! (ok, not really, and these are my quick pics- not bad, eh? maybe there is something to this crack-of-dawn-shooting-thing).

Mystic seaport

Mystic

One more Mystic - that's it, I promise

Heading out of Mystic, we saw a sign for the Connecticut Wine trail – hmm, didn’t know about that one. We see signs for a wine festival going on this particular weekend (fancy that!) so we head over to see what this is all about. Turns out they are growing some Cabernet Franc (decent) and other vinifera varietals, as well as some native varietals. I really dug the Vidal Blanc – very light and refreshing. I also dug the great stone wall-fences surrounding properties and vineyards, quite stately. What I didn’t dig at all, and I’m just showing my wine- snob colors here, was the winery, who I will name – Jonathon Edwards, who tauts itself as a “Connecticut winery”, but ALL of its grapes come from… guess…. Napa Valley! and the place was packed! If you want Napa wine, go to Napa!! Ok, I’ll get off my soapbox now.

vineyard in the C-state

So off to New York we go, and one of Glenn’s favorite places in the whole world (really!) – Mohonk Mountain house in New Paltz. We were extra excited to be going back there because we were going to be hanging in a cabin with our camping buddies, partners in fine wine and food, and just good ole’ San Diego friends, Richele & Edmund. Yippee!!  We picked them up in Poughkeepsie (Glenn’s old hometown) and headed out. We bought all our provisions and settled into the cabin with a glowing fire, and what else… a glass (or bottle) of wine! During the day we did either a long, somewhat grueling mountain bike ride on the Monhonk property out to the Minewaska lake area or a hike/climb on and through the large boulders on the Mohonk trails.

The group in front of Mohonk Mountain house

Lake Minewaska

By evening we were exhausted with all the fresh air, so we made homey, yet elegant dinners that would finish with a taste of the local cheeses served with some great wines (sent ahead by Richele, thank you!) while sitting by the cozy fireplace. One night we treated ourselves to an evening at the famous Cullinary Institue of America (CIA) – THE training ground for some of the country’s most famous chefs. L’escoffier – the fine dining room where we dined on foie gras, duck, and wonderful french wines, is run by the students, and is priced more for a students budget than for a high-end restaurant. It is definitely worth making reservations for 3 months in advance.

Our last day at the cabin, it was raining buckets, so we hung out and packed up all our things. I couldn’t believe that all our months of planning and telephone calls was now over. We all wished we could stay at least another day…it was great to catch up and hang out with R & E. As wonderful as mine and Glenn’s trip has been so far, it is richer when we can share it with our special friends.

Edmund & Richele